
The elegant 19th-century brick building's art-deco interior architecture is of impeccable authenticity. The decor, however, disperses liberal contemporary designer accents alongside the period Erte-era appointments. The palatial air-conditioned public rooms shine with inlaid marble floors, fluted pilasters, chandeliers and museum-quality seating. The Front Hall forsakes Edwardian froufrou in favor of art-deco lines made dramatic by a sweeping grand staircase. The meticulously restored foyer is a rendezvous for the capital's elite, with a Dale Chihuly light sculpture (chandelier) made of more than 800 pieces of hand-blown glass. Graceful waiters serve light meals and cocktails, and as always, a quartet serenades each afternoon at tea, perhaps the most elaborate in London. The adjoining Reading Room is a stunning example of 1930s gentility, with lacquered columns, nostalgic art, and drum-tight art-deco-inspired seating worthy of a show at the Guggenheim.

Chef Gordon Ramsay continues to get raves (and rants) for his creative contemporary French cuisine. The exceptional food rivals the extravagant decor, displaying steely pastel walls as a subtle backdrop to plum and walnut seating and delicate chandeliers done in pleated, tiered pumpkin linen. Although reservations are still recommended, Mr. Ramsay's recent corporate growth spurt—he has opened a number of flashy Ramsay restaurants in London over the past two years—has diluted this subsidiary's prestige and popularity.

This hotel functions flawlessly at the top, a sovereign among London's most formidable hotels. It remains the haunt of royalty, three exiled kings and a queen, but less well-known guests may feel underwhelmed. Despite its size, it conveys the warmth of a lavish cosmopolitan home, and though all are welcome, the chronically casual may prefer an address less ceremonious (and rack rates less formidable) than Claridge's.


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